Spending a weekend in the Fes-Meknes region there is a chance to travel deep into the heart of Moroccan history and discover the secret blessings they possess.

FES

On the first day of my travels, I took a train to Fes and had the chance to explore the sprawling old Medina of Fes as well as visit the Mellah. The Mellah is historically known for being the Jewish quarter of the city and is located close to the royal palace. Although it is not as vast as the medina of Fes, the history of the Mellah is just as significant.

Gateway to the Medina. Photo credit: Baldwin, 2023.

It was built in 1438 by King Abu Muhammed Abd al-Haqq II. The king’s intention was to provide safe housing for the Jews outside of the Medina where they were free to practice their religion in exchange for their loyalty to the sultan. Many of the cities in Morocco have a Mellah of their own, but Fes was the first city to introduce this idea.

Arriving in the Mellah I had the chance to meet a man who was half-Jewish and gave me an unofficial tour. He showed me around the area and took me deep into the Mellah that I never would’ve discovered if it weren’t for his help.

Entrance to the Jewish Museum. Photo credit: Baldwin, 2023.

He showed me around and brought me to many historical Moroccan Jewish landmarks, including synagogues and old Jewish schools. Nowadays anyone can live in the Mellah, but Jewish people from around the world who had family in Morocco will come back to the Mellah during Jewish holidays and visit their old family homes or the cemetery just outside of the Mellah.

My guide told me some will go to the cemetery to visit their old family members while others will go to venerate prominent figures in Moroccan Judaism. Sol Hatchuel (1817-1834), a Jewish martyr who was born in Tangier in the 19th century and was known for her beauty and strength and character is currently resting there and is a popular visit for Jewish people coming to Fes. People who have gone the distance to visit these sites will oftentimes rest stones on the graves, something that is common in Jewish tradition.

Tomb of Solica Hatchouel. Photo credit: Baldwin, 2023.

I was also taken to a synagogue and met the local woman who was the guardian of the building. Although there used to be 26 functioning synagogues in Fes there is now only one located in the new city that does routine practice. The one I was shown was not functioning anymore but was open to visitors and would sometimes hold a service if there were enough people there for it. The woman who was running the synagogue was very nice and told me she has been doing this work for a long time. She got the job from her father who was the previous caretaker. She was very welcoming and let me go upstairs to the roof where I could look out at the Jewish cemetery.

Then I walked to my hostel which was just outside the Medina and rested because tomorrow I would be heading to Volubilis.

VOLUBILIS

Waking up early in the morning I headed to Bab Boujloud to meet my tour guide because today we would head to Volubilis. Despite a flat tire change during the ride, we soon arrived at the ancient Roman city of Volubilis, about 26 kilometers north of Meknes. Constructed as a Roman outpost in the 3rd century BC, the site is now a UNESCO world heritage site and a popular destination for tourists.

Triumphal arch. Photo credit: Baldwin, 2023.

Exploring the ancient city is like walking back in time. Old ruins of tall Roman-style columns as well as houses constructed from stones, it feels like you are living how the Romans once did. With the assistance of a local guide, they can show you around to all the different locations on site and tell you about the history and the context of the area.

Volubilis ruins. Photo credit: Baldwin, 2023.

Inside some of the uncovered houses are beautiful mosaics that tell the story of ancient Roman legends as well as offer a glimpse into what the daily life in Volubilis was like. Although there is a lot on display in the area, much of it is still hidden under the earth waiting to be uncovered by archeologists.

Roman mosaic. Photo credit: Baldwin, 2023.

MEKNES

Meknes was probably the highlight of my trip. I really liked spending time walking around the Medina, which was so large it went out into the street where pedestrians and cars learned to share the road with one another.

I had the chance to be taken around with a tour guide who brought me to the tomb of Moulay Ismail (1645-1727), the sultan of Morocco who made Meknes the capital city (for the time) and is the father of over 1,000 children. Despite his lascivious past his tomb is very beautiful and is open for the public to visit.

A door inside the Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail. Photo credit: Baldwin, 2023.

Walking around the medina I had the chance to watch craftsmen at work, sewing by hand traditional djellabas or kaftans for weddings. I also was able to witness a craft that is exclusive to the Meknes region called Damascene metal work. This craftsmanship is meticulous, as one has to take silver wire and hammer in a design into metal, but very beautiful. Some items that are commonly made into Damascene metal work are plates, jewelry and hands of Fatima. Although the prices can be expensive in some shops, I encourage people to walk around the medina keeping an ear open for the sound of someone hammering away. That is where you can find local Damascene artwork. Friendly craftsmen can show you how it is made, and you can get a better price for it than you would in the large bazaars.

After that I had a chance to explore the market and buy myself some food for dinner. Not only was it a chance to immerse myself in the local culture, it was also a good chance for me to practice some of my language which left many of the shopkeepers impressed.

Sunset over Meknes. Photo credit: Baldwin, 2023.

I headed back to my hotel room for the night and enjoyed a delicious meal on the terrace and watched a beautiful sunset.

Connor Baldwin is a student at Marquette University and is studying abroad on the Amideast Area and Arabic Studies Program in Rabat, Morocco this spring 2023.